Buying a Used Tractor: What to Check Before You Buy

A good used tractor can give years of reliable work on the farm, the estate or the contracting round, often for a fraction of the cost of new. But two tractors of the same make, model and year can be worlds apart once you look underneath the paint. This guide walks through what to check on a used tractor before you buy, from the paperwork and the engine to the transmission, hydraulics, linkage and tyres, so you can spend your money with confidence.

Start with the job you need it to do

Before you look at a single advert, be clear about the work. Horsepower, weight and spec all follow from the job.

• Loader work and yard jobs: look for a tractor that has been set up for a loader from new or properly fitted later, with good visibility and a responsive shuttle.
• Heavy cultivation and drilling: you need enough horsepower and weight, plus a linkage with the lift capacity for your implements.
• Mowing, baling and PTO work: check the PTO speeds you need are there and that the tractor has the spool valves for your kit.
• Road haulage with trailers: a higher top speed, good brakes, air or hydraulic trailer brakes and suspension make a real difference.

Buying too small means the tractor is always working flat out. Buying too big means paying for power, fuel and weight you never use.

Check the paperwork and history

Ask for the registration document, service records and any receipts for major work. Make sure the serial number on the chassis matches the paperwork and that the seller has the right to sell it. Ask whether the tractor has finance outstanding and whether it has been on hire or used by a contractor, because both tell you a lot about the life it has had.

Hours matter, but they are only part of the story. Check the hour meter looks original and that the wear on the pedals, seat, steering wheel and cab fits the hours shown. A tractor showing low hours with a worn out cab deserves more questions.

Engine: start it from cold

Ask the seller not to run the tractor before you arrive. A cold start shows you far more than a warm one.

• It should start cleanly without a long crank or a cloud of smoke that does not clear.
• Listen for knocks, rattles or a heavy tapping once it is running.
• Check for blow-by: with the engine running, remove the oil filler cap and look for heavy fumes pushing out.
• Look at the oil and coolant. Milky oil or oil in the coolant can point to head gasket or cooler problems.
• Look for oil leaks around the engine, turbo and sump, and check the radiator and coolers are clean and not blocked with chaff.

On newer tractors, ask about AdBlue and emissions systems, and whether any warning lights or fault codes are stored. Repairs to these systems can be expensive, so it pays to ask.

Transmission, clutch and shuttle

Take the tractor for a proper drive, not just a lap of the yard. Work through every gear and range, forwards and backwards. Gear changes should be smooth with no crunching, slipping or long delays. On powershift and CVT gearboxes, watch for hesitation or jerky changes, and ask when the transmission oil and filters were last done.

Try the shuttle several times and check the clutch bites at a sensible point. Engage four wheel drive and the diff lock and make sure both work. Listen for whining or clunking from the axles, and check the front axle for play by rocking the wheels.

Hydraulics, linkage and PTO

The hydraulics do much of a tractor’s real work, so test them under load if you can.

• Raise and lower the rear linkage with an implement on. It should lift steadily and hold without creeping down.
• Check the lift arms, top link, check chains and pick-up hitch for wear, cracks and welding.
• Operate every spool valve and look for leaking couplings or weeping hoses.
• Run the PTO in each speed and listen for noise. Make sure it engages and stops cleanly.
• If a loader is fitted, check the pins and bushes for play, the brackets for cracks and the frame mounts for signs of repair.

Hydraulic oil that is dark, milky or full of debris is a warning sign that the system has not been looked after.

Tyres, brakes, cab and electrics

Tyres are a big cost on any tractor, so check the tread depth on all four and look for cracks in the sidewalls and mismatched sizes. Uneven wear on the fronts can point to steering or alignment problems.

Test the brakes on the drive, both together and individually, and check the handbrake holds on a slope. Inside the cab, check the air conditioning, heater, lights, wipers, mirrors and every switch. Look for damp, cracked glass and wiring that has been modified or taped up. A tidy, working cab is often a good sign of a careful owner.

Questions to ask the seller

• What work has it been doing, and on what kind of land?
• When was it last serviced, and has it had any major repairs?
• Has it ever had a loader, front linkage or other kit fitted and removed?
• Is there any warranty, and will you deliver or help arrange transport?

A dealer who answers clearly and lets you test the tractor properly is a dealer worth buying from. If you need to get the tractor home, our guide to moving a tractor safely and for a fair price is worth a read.

Find your next used tractor on Plant And Tractor Trader

Plant And Tractor Trader lists used tractors for sale from dealers across the UK and Ireland, along with loaders and attachments, balers and telehandlers, and you deal with the seller direct. Stock changes every week, so if the right tractor is not there today, sign up for our new stock alerts and we will email you when fresh machines arrive.

If you are a dealer with tractors in the yard, you can advertise your machinery on Plant And Tractor Trader with unlimited listings for £500 + VAT for 12 months, or a one-off advert for £150.

Questions about buying or selling? WhatsApp us on 07470 093663 and we will point you in the right direction.